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The Beautiful Desert



That spring moon--did anyone else see the moon this morning, at about 6:30?  It's one day short of full, and on a clear night like we just had, it was brilliant, glistening; breathtaking.  As I drove north past Willard Bay the moon descended toward the Promontories and its white-gold brilliance reflected in a broad, glittering swath across the bay.  It was a wonderful start for a day of desert beauty, but the best view of the moon was yet to come.
 
I headed to Box Elder County early this morning to do some Golden Spike birding.  I also planned to check for the Snow Geese in Corinne again, but I was pretty sure I would make them disappear like I did last weekend by just making plans to try to see them.  Those silly geese were caught off-guard when I arrived much earlier than they expected me.  They hadn't yet made their dawn escape over to the North Bay of Bear River MBR. 
 
By 6:45 a.m. the sky was a deep gray-blue and cast light of the same color over the emerald fields of Corinne.  I found the flock of Snow Geese just where Lu Giddings reported previously--on 6800W about 1 1/2 miles south of UT 83.  I guestimated that about 700 birds rested in a long, ragged line across the field.  They were too far away to determine if other species, like Ross's Geese, were present.  But they were not too far away for me to absorb the spectacle that the geese and the waning night presented.  Due west of the geese and by then low over the Promontory Mountains, the moon hung, huge and blond.  The geese seemed to waddle toward it and I watched them, the smoky blue mountains, and the moon in my telescope at the same time.   As the moon made its descent it seemed to grow even larger and became a bright citrus color.  It developed a ragged edge.  And then it melded with the highest ridge and inexorably sank, sank, sank...out of sight.  I felt a little melancholy because I was alone and no one else had seen the mix of snow-white geese, green fields, smoky blue mountains and sky, and that huge, descending, glittering orb. 
 
I passed by Salt Creek WMA briefly and noted many dabblers, Great Blue Herons, American Avocets, and what I believe was a first-year Black-crowned Night Heron at the edge of one of the impoundments.  The only big white birds present were American White Pelicans.  Many of those same species were represented at the open water along UT 83 at mile marker 11.  I also noticed many species--Canada Geese, Northern Shovelers, Cinnamon Teal, Mallards, Green-winged Teal--seem to have selected nest sites. 
 
After turning off UT 83 onto Golden Spike Drive, I swept the field to the north of the road looking for those little brown blobs, Burrowing Owls.  I saw brown blobs for sure, but they turned into 17 widely spaced Long-billed Curlews, 3 Willets, and approximately 17,832 cow pies. 
 
I approached Golden Spike NHS via Promontory Road and the Last Cut.  At the Last Cut historical marker, that mocker of the desert--the buffy and gray Rock Wren, greeted me with a "Tik-keer!  Tik-keer!"  The bird was a welcome sight as it busied itself in every crack and sang from every orange lichen-encrusted rock down in the railroad bed.  The big Chukar coveys of winter have fragmented and now all the Chukars are appearing in Noah's Ark order.  I saw and listened to two pairs with brilliant red eyerings, also along the Last Cut.  Far away and from a bluff's peak, a Golden Eagle surveyed the early morning desert.  His or her head flashed and the mottled gold spanned on the scapulars as well.  I later saw and heard many Say's Phoebes and several Sage Thrashers around the Golden Spike NHS Visitor's Center. 
 
About a dozen miles west of Golden Spike as the curlew flies, and southeast of Salt Wells Flat, I saw something a birder never wants to see in the wide open, remote spaces of Box Elder County--a flat tire.  There had to be someone around on whom I could pull my most helpless act!  I think I could earn an Oscar playing a dumbsel in distress.  Well, dang it all anyway, I never saw another human being.  That sad, floppy tire experienced TLC only from me.  This county road is so remote that NOT ONE person came along in the hour or more I hogged the entire road, jacked the truck and employed all the leveraging devices at my disposal.  Hmmph.  Where are all the knights in shining armor who have a way with lug nuts when you need them?  My carefully-nurtured dumb act went completely to waste. 
 
The bad thing about the flat tire is that I lost more than an hour of birding on a fabulous, sunny gift of a day.  The good thing about being on that road and in the area in the first place, is that I saw a Prairie Falcon, another Long-billed Curlew, a pair of Burrowing Owls, and a Pronghorn Antelope.  So I think I came out ahead, in the long run. 
 
On the way back through Golden Spike territory in mid-afternoon I walked the Big Fill trail for the first time.  If you have the opportunity, you might consider taking this trail, too.  I recommend the cool morning hours for this endeavor.  The Big Fill Walk presents a great history lesson on the building of the Transcontinental Railroad, or breathtaking scenery stretching across the mud flats of Bear River MBR to the Wasatch Front snow caps, or just an easy walk.  Oh, yes--and I saw birds, too.  Say's Phoebes, Rock Wrens, Western Meadowlarks, Chukars, and Long-billed Curlews serenaded me.  The Say's Phoebes stuttered and whistled, "Ch-cheeuuuww.  Tch-tch-cheeuuuww.  Ach-cheeuuuwww.  God bless yeeuuuww."  All right, I'll fess up--I don't exactly know what they said, but it always seemed to end in eeuuuwww.  Maybe they were sneering at me.  I also watched a Turkey Vulture sail low enough over my head that I could see without binoculars its red, wrinkled cranium.  It sailed down toward the mud flat.  The vulture provided an interesting perspective--we don't usually get to see these birds from above, but indeed, the bird flew down that draw like a skier on a slope, and I watched it from my perspective higher above on the trail.   
 
This early in the season is the perfect time to get out there and absorb the desert's stark and expansive beauty.  The Northern Utah sage has not yet blushed green for those fleeting days before the hot, dry days of summer envelope us, but no matter.  Golden Spike becomes an inhospitable place as the weather warms unless you're from some place hotter...like Death Valley!  So get out there and walk the walks, read the historical markers and enjoy the best of the Great Basin desert before the scorching time.  
 
Kris