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Kolob Canyons/Zion National Park



The Kolob Canyons area of Zion National Park is a terrific on-the-way birding spot.  Not only is the area breathtaking for its red rock canyon beauty, but it's an easy place to bird due to the proximity of exit 40 of I-15.  I birded Kolob Canyons yesterday from 8:30 to 2:30.  Birds sang at every turnout along the scenic drive.  If you have time for just a quick stop here, pull into any turnout, get out of your vehicle, listen, and chase whatever you hear up and down the road.  If you have more time, choose a trail and go for it.  The Kolob-only Zion entrance fee is $10.00. 
 
Along the road I came across Black-throated Gray, Virginia's, Orange-crowned, and Yellow-Rumped Warblers; Ruby-crowned Kinglets; Blue-gray Gnatcatchers; Spotted Towhees; a Juniper Titmouse and Western Scrub Jays.  I came across one particular tree where a Black-throated Gray was singing its burry, "Come'n, come'n, come'n, come'n, come'n SEE ME!".  A couple other sprites moved about in the same tree and when I brought up my binoculars, instantly I had a red-orange crown in my view.  It was the seldom-seen crown of a Ruby-crowned Kinglet.  Another warbler foraged in the top of the tree in bright morning sunlight.  The Orange-crowned Warbler dipped its head toward me and the sun to show its slight orange crown.  I've never seen the crown before yesterday morning.  The sight was gratifying, but wait!  Who named this bird after that feature, anyway?  I might have to have a little discussion with them about creating bird names that make sense.
 
A male Broad-tailed Hummingbird scribed deep, corkscrew crescents down into and above the canyon along the road.  I watched the display with two Minnesota birders who were thrilled to see and hear their first Broad-tailed Hummingbird.  I heard several species that never showed themselves--Song and Chipping Sparrows and Canyon Wrens. 
 
A Plumbeous Vireo offered great views and I watched it forage in a pine tree while singing its burry sing-song. I especially liked to watch the vireo because it allowed me protracted views in comparison to the busy birds I'd been watching.  The vireo hopped about at a measured pace throughout the tree and even paused out in the sunlight for me to study its spectacles and degree of gray across its crown, back, and tail. 
 
Be sure to stop at the switchback called Lee Pass (not Lee Pass Trailhead).  This is a GREAT place for White-throated Swifts.  In fact, I was passing through the switchback with windows rolled down to listen for birds and I heard the swifts' robust, descending, metallic twittering.  I turned around, parked, and walked a short distance up a trail and watched the cliff activity for about 30 minutes.  White-throated Swifts seemed to billow off the cliff face at times.  I saw several dozen, but of course, they're impossible to count.  I concentrated instead in catching them in good light so I could see the geometric, contrasting black-and-white pattern on their ventral sides. 
 
While I was developing a good case of White-throated Swift neck, a pair of Golden Eagles soared over the top of the cliff.  I passed on watching them in favor of the swifts.  My priority system says Golden Eagles are here year-round and I can watch them some other time. The eagles got the last laugh at my choice.  A little later I caught sight of one of them perched at the top of a precipice.  While I watched, the eagle dropped over the edge toward me without flapping.  I saw the Thunderbird silhouette of indian lore and legend.  As the eagle rapidly lost altitude it pulled its wings into a stoop and crossed the canyon in front of me.  It swooped low to the opposing canyon wall.  Just as it reached the other side, it spread its wings, flared, and landed on the rocks.  I watched to see what held its interest.  The eagle's mate was already there, struggling with something behind a small pine.  Both birds eventually took off.  One of them held a small, pale brown object dangling in its talons--say, ground squirrel- or cottontail rabbit-sized.  So much for my not being interested in the eagles in favor of the swifts. 
 
The last thing that caught my interest at Lee Pass was another raptor in a dive-bombing stoop against the red face of stone.  The bird's upper side was gray-blue and lower side was a pale, uniform color.  That's all I saw before the bird simply disappeared at the bottom of the dive.  I'd like to think it was a Peregrine Falcon, but since hope is not a method of bird identification, the raptor will remain anonymous.
 
I later walked the 5.4-mile Taylor's Creek trail.  This trail is a one-way up and same way down excursion, but good news--it's only uphill for half the total distance ;^D.  Most of the birds I saw along the trail were the same species as those along the scenic drive.  The trail hosted amazing numbers of Blue-gray Gnatcatchers, Black-throated Grays, and especially, Virginia's Warblers.  The Virginia's sang all the way up and down.  I could almost use the phrase, 'infested with Virginia's', but that choice might be the result of a birder's irrational exuberance.  The Black-throated Grays were more common along the lower portion.  I also saw another titmouse and a single Bushtit rattling its tiny chain to create that incessant clinking-chipping. There were more singing vireos, Black-capped Chickadees, and I heard Canyon Wrens and Mountain Chickadees.  
 
The reward at the top of the trail was not a bird--it was Double Arch Alcove.  This tranquil spot is a cradle of red rock streaked with black and green and cream.  The opposing canyon wall formed the fourth side of red rock and I was completely surrounded in geologic beauty.  I stood inside the cool, moist amphitheater and listened to the tiny splats of dripping from the underside of the lower arch.  The sky above was a bright, irregular blue trapezoid.  Two jet-black ravens soared on the updraft at the top of the canyon wall and added their far-away, hoarse croaking to the dripping sound and the cool wind coursing through the pinion pines.  The tranquil moment offered a panoply of Dixie wonders and was the perfect last impression of my visit.   
 
Kris